Krisztian's Journal
7/12/06-10/05/06

Wednesday, July 12

I am on my way to Afghanistan to film a documentary for a news station on the reconstruction of Kabul when the bombing in Lebanon begins.

Friday, July 21

Everywhere we go in Afghanistan the topic of conversation turns to Lebanon, Israel, and the US. Every night we sit around the TV to see what's going on.

Tuesday, August 1

The constant pictures of death and destruction has taken its toll on the general mood of Kabul. People on the street are suddenly much more anti-western.

Sunday, August 5

We celebrate my 31st birthday at a Lebanese restaurant in Kabul.

Tuesday, August 15

Immediately after returning from Afghanistan I begin planning a trip to Lebanon. I inquire at local news agencies to find out what footage they may be interested in getting in Lebanon. Unfortunately, their response is less than positive. There is, in fact, no interest at all.

Wednesday, August 23

After a week of hurried searching, a local station agrees to supply all the camera equipment and use some of the footage I can get in Lebanon.

Thursday, August 31

A week later my equipment sponsor pulls the plug! Cold feet, I guess. No camera, no equipment. Nada. Screw it. I'm still going.

Friday, September 1

I start my research on Lebanon and attempt to find contacts in Beirut.

Tuesday, September 5

My search for contacts is failing badly. I've tried everywhere from chat groups, Yahoo, Craigslist ® everything I can think of. I've even asked every single Arabic friend I know, with no luck.

I order a brand new $3000 Sony PD-170 from B&H and charge it to my credit card. Oh well, it's only money.

Thursday, September 7

My brand new Sony PD-170 arrives. 2 weeks to go!

Friday, September 8

As a last resort I type "Beirut, Lebanon" into the search on MySpace and send everyone a message.

From: Kris
Date: September 8, 1:14 am

Hello. I will be filming a documentary about the effects of the war on the Lebanese people. I am looking for people that can give me insight into the situation in Lebanon. I'm looking for people from all different groups with different opinions.

I will be in Lebanon from 9/17 to 10/4. Please contact me if you are interested in talking to me.

Thank you and peace,

Krisztian K. Orban
newsbykko@yahoo.com

Saturday, September 9

HUGE positive response! Several people message me back immediately and are very willing to help!

From: Joseph
Date: September 11, 6:01 AM

Hello, my name is Joseph. I am Mazen's friend on MySpace, and I come from the same hometown from the south, and he told me that you are coming here to take pictures of the war on Lebanon.

So I'm also offering my help, and I want to know what's exactly your plan, and how long are you gonna stay in Beirut, and if you are willing to visit the south, and probably arrange a tour to visit the devastated areas in the south, so if you could please fill me in on your plans and how much time you are willing to stay in Lebanon.

One last thing, I wanna thank you for your interest in photographing the war to deliver to the western society the ruthless destruction.

Thank you again,

Joseph

Tuesday, September 12

I'm having major problems with the new camera and still don't have all the equipment. 5 days to go.

Wednesday, September 13

The last pieces of my gear arrives next day air from New York, including the bag for the camera. But after opening the box I notice the bag is made in none other than Israel! Great, I'm going to cover the aftermath of Israel's war with in Lebanon with a "Made In Israel" camera bag. Needless to say that was out of the question so 4 days before my flight I have to make a camera bag out of pieces of foam, plywood, and an old gear bag.

Thursday, September 14

A friend finally resolved the wide-angle problem on the camera by replacing it with their lens. Thank you! After some cutting and sanding I finally get the lens cover to fit the other wide-angle lens. Some more modifications and I manage to mount my wireless receiver on the camera.

It's 3 days before my flight and my camera is finally ready but there is no time to actually field test all the modifications. Another friend loans me a French bullet-proof helmet.

Friday, September 15

Packing and repacking. Am I missing anything? Stressing out.

Sunday, September 17

4:00 PM

I leave SFO for Lebanon via Air France.

5:00 PM

I talk to the guy beside me on the plane. He tells me this is his first time back since the war. He asks if I'm Lebanese :)

Monday, September 18

6:30 PM

I see Beirut for the first time from the window of the plane. It's beautiful! It's a clear night and we fly right by Beirut very low on our way to the airport.

7:00 PM

Arrive at Beirut airport and off to customs. My first time in Lebanon!

8:00 PM

After much smiling and handshaking, I leave customs with all my gear intact! My friend/driver/translator/guide/bodyguard and general assistant Edward meets me with a big smile and a handshake. Nothing like a familiar face!

Tuesday, September 19

9:00 AM

We arrive at Edward's cousin's cell phone store to buy a phone. He's not there. An hour later and still no cell phone. Time to try to get my press pass.

10:00 AM

Arrive at the General Directory of the General Security in downtown Beirut to get my Lebanon press pass. After some broken Arabic conversation I'm sent next door to the Ministry of Information.

10:50 AM

I am informed that I don't have all the necessary paperwork to receive a Lebanon press pass even though I have an email from the "General Directory of the General Security" office saying all I need is my press pass from San Francisco. Oh well, I'm off to drink some coffee and take up smoking again.

12:00 PM

Go back and finally buy a cell phone but the guy does not sell cell phone service? Great.

3:00 PM

After circling all of Beirut (in traffic) we come to suspect no one has cell phone service cards.

4:00 PM

We find a cell phone store that has cards. Seven hours after I started I have a working cell phone, but no press pass.

5:00 PM

I start calling all the people I met on MySpace. It goes very well, everyone seems very helpful and happy to finally hear my voice.

Wednesday, September 20

While I figure out how to get a press pass, I take Edward's advice and act like a stupid tourist whenever I am questioned about filming. "Who me, what you can't film here? Sorry I didn't know. I'm a tourist!"

Thursday, September 21

I just found out Hezbollah's biggest victory rally will be on Friday, Shit! After many panicked calls Edward and I head over to Dahia for the first time to try to find the Hezbollah press relations office.

[Note: It's hard to find people that don't want to be found in a place you don't know after the place has been bombed into the ground and all the street signs are gone.]

2:00 PM

After 2 hours of searching we find the Hezbollah office in an unmarked apartment building. Long story short, no access to the rally without a Lebanon press pass.

3:00 PM

Back at the Ministry of Information. After 30 minutes of my best handshaking, smiling, explaining and finally demanding, no press pass. Great.

Friday, September 22

8:00 AM

I arrive back at the Ministry of Information armed with a letter from a production company in San Francisco. Victory! But they proceed to tell me it's too late to get Hezbollah credentials for the rally. F**k that!

9:00 AM

Well yes, maybe they were right, All the Hezbollah cell numbers I was given yesterday no longer work.

11:00 AM

We arrive unannounced and uninvited to the rally.

12:30 PM

I'm in a minibus with all the other journalists on my way to the rally staging area. I guess you don't need any credentials to get into the rally after all!

1:00 PM

They took all our gear to get checked before we get in. Unfortunately, the Hezbollah press people found three minor problems with me.

1. I just got my Lebanon press pass today.
2. I don't have a Hezbollah pass.
3. I have a U.S. passport.

2:30 PM

After much talking and being ignored I resort to grabbing and holding one of the Hezbolah press guys while explaining why he HAS to let me in.

3:00 PM

I'm at the rally.

8:00 PM

I'm dead tired! The rally was very impressive, I got some great stuff, including shots of Hassan Nasrallah and interviews in the crowd. Thank God for Arabic classes!

Sunday, September 24

5:00 AM

Edward arrives with Joseph and his friend at my hotel ready to go to "The South" for the first time.

10:00 AM

We are lost, lost, and lost. No signs, every road is bombed, detours everywhere and no one knows where anything is.

11:30 AM

As we get closer to the Israeli border the destruction gets much worse. Whole areas are leveled.

3:00 PM

What do I say to a guy with a leveled house with unexploded American made shells still sitting in it? Sorry? It really amazed me how these people manage to keep their composure and still have the patience to talk to me. And offer me coffee when their house is a bomb crater.

4:00 PM

Shortly after accepting a drink of Lebanese moonshine, I almost step on a partially exploded American 155mm shell. That's a learning experience!

7:00 PM

We get back to Joseph's house and go out to socialize in Yaroun.

9:00 PM

On our way to a friend's house, we stop by and hang out with two UN soliders from Africa that are standing around in the pitch dark guarding a fork in the road in the middle of nowhere somewhere near Yaroun. I guess that dirt road is secure!

Monday, September 25

10:00 AM

We set off for Beirut. An ominous sign: the car runs a little strange.

11:00 AM

The 150,000 mile Daihatsu wondermobile takes a complete shit on us.

12:00 AM

The car won't even make it up hills anymore. Joseph and I have to get out and walk while Edward drives the car up hills with his friend in the back (he has a bad knee). Of course this is Lebanon so we get 20 feet before an old Shia stops, and piles us into a van full of giggling teenage girls. Beats walking!

4:00 PM

Everyone has tried the standard Lebanese technique for repairing a broken Daihatsu. (Revving the engine repeatedly.)

5:00 PM

FINALLY an actual MECHANIC is summoned!

6:00 PM

More engine revving . . .

6:30 PM

And more engine revving, but this time they jack up one side of the car, put it in gear and actually spin the tires at 35mph! Ooops! The car just fell off the jack and almost killed the two geniuses in front revving the engine. I start smoking very heavily.

7:00 PM

The "mechanic" decides to try something new. He actually pulls the car into the garage and starts to replace the bad spark plugs.

8:00 PM

We arrive back in Beirut in the 150,000 mile Daihatsu wonderwreck.

Tuesday, September 26

I start calling the United Nations about going on a ride along with the Chinese and Indian battalions in the south.

Wednesday, September 27

While having lunch with Edward I notice two older gentlemen walk in speaking perfect English. Since I am looking for some Americans to talk to I decide to approach the group to talk to me. I meet Mr. Nasser, a Lebanese American that moved back to Lebanon to retire, only to be caught in the middle of the war. I interview him at the restaurant about his experiences during the war and his take on the political situation. After searching for days for bombing victims to interview I am sent to a Shia orphanage near the Beirut airport where I meet Miss Fereyal for the first time. We talk for over an hour about life after the war, her students that were killed, and Islam.

Friday, September 29

5:00 AM

Once again we start our fun trip down south.

9:30 AM

Does anyone in the south of Lebanon know where anything is? At this point I think I can direct people better.

10:00 AM

Off with Major Pandi with the United Nations Indian battalion.

5:00 PM

We arrive back after a day, out talking to locals and giving first aid to the farmers' animals. It's very touching to see how much the Indians care for the local Lebanese. They consider the Lebanese like family.

6:00 PM

After a little disagreement about personal safety with Edward, I set off on foot to film the destroyed UN observation post on the "blue line". The base is DEMOLISHED! It definitely took more than one direct hit, and judging from the destruction in other parts of the south, they were very big shells. Maybe even bigger than 155mm. (In retrospect, Edward was right. The walk up was a little interesting due to the unexploded ordnance everywhere.) We get home at midnight, both exhausted.

Saturday, September 30

10:00 AM

We started late since I will be shooting all my Beirut club footage tonight.

9:00 PM

I start going to bars and clubs to see where "the" club is. After talking to half a dozen people I am unanimously sent to "The Basement" and "BO18".

10:30 PM

After convincing the manager at "The Basement" of my noble intentions I am allowed to film. The manager from "BO18" also agrees. Finally something goes smoothly!

3:45 AM

I finish filming at both clubs. The footage looks good and I meet Lynn, an American living in Beirut. She promises to introduce me to more Americans living in Beirut that I can interview later.

Tuesday, October 3

6:00 AM

We leave for the south. The press relations person promises me that I am scheduled to do a ride-along with the Chinese battalion while they remove unexploded cluster bombs.

10:00 AM

We arrive in the south only to be turned away by the Lebanese Army because I don't have a Lebanese Army press pass. I immediately make some frantic phone calls to the UN to try to get us past the checkpoint. I'm informed that not only can they not assist but that the Chinese have mysteriously disappeared! The UN press relations people don't even want to deal with it anymore. I'm on my own . . .

10:30 AM

I find out the Chinese battalion has flaked on me once again. Their excuse is they went to lunch and they are done for the day. WTF?! So far the Chinese battalion has done everything to try to avoid me!

11:30 AM

I arrive at the gate of the Chinese battalion and proceed to explain myself through a razor wire fence to a Chinese soldier that does not speak a word of English or Arabic. After about half an hour, a very attractive Lebanese girl comes to the gate to see what I need. For whatever reason she decides to save the day, and promises me that she will personally arrange a ride-along for tomorrow. But I have to be there at 8am. I later learn her name is Sabina and she is the Chinese battalion's translator. I also learn later that she speaks Chinese, Arabic and English fluently and spends her days walking around with the Chinese battalion looking for cluster bombs, all the while waiting to lose a limb to an explosion. All for the huge salary of $90 a day. That's dedication.

Wednesday, October 4

4:00 AM

We leave Beirut. We are both exhausted.

5:45 AM

We almost drive off a highway after missing a detour in front of a bombed freeway overpass. Thank you Israeli Defense Force!

8:00 AM

We arrive back at the battalion base dead tired but as Sabina promised, everything is arranged!

10:00 AM

We arrive at the first location to remove cluster bombs. Everyone puts on their body armor and Kevlar helmets. I put on my baseball cap and button up my Old Navy shirt. Safety first.

12:00 PM

We break for lunch after collecting almost 50+ cluster bombs. They are everywhere ® under rocks, in trees, hanging on fences. Every step is dangerous. I'm truly amazed at the battalion's ability in finding these things. They are tiny and they rust so you can't see them.

Even worse, when one explodes on impact it sometimes buries another unexploded one right beside it, so now you have a live bomb invisible under an inch of dirt.

1:00 PM

Everywhere we go we find them! We found one a foot away from the road we just drove on.

2:30 PM

For the second time today, my camera is nearly blown up during a detonation.

6:00 PM

We arrive back at the Chinese battalion base. We say our goodbyes and we are off for our long drive back to Beirut.

Thursday, October 5

6:00 AM

We leave for the last time to film the farmers living on the Israeli border. At this point I am really pushing it! I'm leaving tonight at 1am.

1:00 PM

We are greeted at our first Lebanese army checkpoint by a commander that refuses to let us go any further without Lebanese army credentials. We are told to drive an hour and a half back to the Lebanese army headquarters and get army credentials. Good times.

3:00 PM

After much searching, I receive my "official" Lebanese army press credentials! It consists of a yellow Post-It note with a note scribbled on it in Arabic saying it's okay for me to go to the south. Very official. Back to the same checkpoint.

6:00 PM

We finish our filming and are off to the airport for my flight back.

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